The video card requires a power supply with a 12 volt current rating of 18 amps. If you look at this power supply's specs, you will see 12V1 and 12V2, providing 17 amps and 19 amps, respectively. Does this mean the power supply can simply supply up to 19 amps of 12 volts? Or are they two totally different things?
"PSU makers' specs are misleading in that they rate the current capacity of each 12V rail independently. What really matters is the total 12V current: Generally, up to 20A is available on any one 12V line assuming the total 12V current capacity of the PSU is not exceed."
Wow, so that means my power supply can deliver up to 36 amps on 12 volts. Correct me if I am wrong...again.
(Heh, sorry...I have a few projects due soon and I don't have much time to read)
Why pay so much for that low end standard quality psu?
Get the Okia 600W BLUE Broadway Com Corp. P4OKIA600-Blue ATX PS
New Egg #: N82E16817162015 29.99 + $7 s/h 3 day UPS express. Shipped from Memphis, TN
Efficiency: SAME Appx. : 70% of MAX at full load. = 7*600=420 usable watts.
Plus all Votage rails are at higher amp current load than the model you refer to.
Remember, NOBODY GETS 100% output, PERIOD. Impossible, laws of physics, voltage leaks, electrical waste in the form of heat. These and more variabes help cause a PSU to burn out. PLUS the demand by a high end video card.
You must make sure the +3.3 Volt RAIL is EXCELLENT. Low volts, say 3.15v, at the low end, will cause Video Card instability, lines, texture smearing.
IT MUST BE A STRONG PSU in these areas= 3.3v, +5v, +12v, -12v rails.
Get a HIGH WATT OUTPUT/LARGE AMP LOAD unit. Multiply the RATED OUTPUT by the 70% factor, that is the true useable output
Furthermore, if YOU WANT HIGHER EFFICIENCY, GET ONE THAT STATES, ON SPEC SHEET: PFC= ACTIVE. This is a "Power Conversion Factor' correction circuit. It allows the PSU to produce a 95% output at max load.
THESE ARE COSTLY, AROUND $120+. They last not much longer than the 30 buck units.
Just make sure you look at this OKIA: QUIET, DUAL FAN, HIGH Volt RAILS/High AMP load per rail @ max load. I have used this for my POWER TOWER for 3.5 years, only one change due to 3.3 v rail dropping to min, causing my video card to blink out once in awhile. Additionally, the 3.3v rail, 12v rail is ALSO for boot up. Sometimes the PC will not start. NOT because of the power on/off button, the PSU! It is at too low a volt output at 3.3v for the switches to start the Box up.
Your 500 is overpriced, underpowered and you should look further. The PSU is a unit that is always going to be replaced every so many years if the PC is driven hard, like mine.
Do what tickles your fancy. I trust OKIA, never a problem and I have tested the TOTAL MAX LOAD OUTPUT on a BENCH test. It is at about 465 Watts for the 600. >70% efficient while at max current load per data sheet. The first lasted 3 years, darn good. Now this one is the same, quiet, cool, nice output, no problems.
It has a 20 pin connector. CHECK YOUR CONNECTOR from PS to mobo.
How about your mobo? HOW MANY PIN HOLES? Your pick states 24 pin connector. CHECK yours! Some mobos still use 20 pin standards.
Don't spend to much on something like this. IF SO: PAY THE BUCKS. GET A PRO UNIT: 700+ WATT at 95% PFC. About $150-200 & up. You can spend a thousand and mine will last ALMOST as long as yours. With yours going for a short time more. Make sure DUAL FANS in correct orientation for tower. Top fans no good, use coaxial dual fans. In-line. 32 cfm, 2500 RPM.
I'm sorry, Steve. The orientation of the power supply you recommended won't allow me to get access to the main connector! I have a Dell computer and its case is proprietary. So I have to get a power supply that looks like the one I am about to purchase.
So now, since I do not have what you, the TRUE PRO has, makes my rig inferior?
Now can I get credit for the Bunny CMOS Battery? Come on dad, I want to be a complete true pro!
Give me a break. It is just a PSU. The top gun model is almost the same as the low end model. Now how many different ways can you wrap a metal core to make a psu? Hum, 30? , 40? DOES IT MATTER?
So, True Pro it is! You have to right, your a True Pro!
Location: COMFORTABLY NUMB, in U.S.A. *** KOFF ***
Age: 51
Gender: Male
Is it me, or my wallet, screaming at the ridiculous prices for the PC Power and Cooling, PSU's. I checked thier 400w systems to mine. I saved $95 for the same specs except for 2. ( 1 ) Their 3.3v has a higher amp rating. Which won't be taxed that high. ( 2 ) 1 year longer warranty. I forgot one thing. Mine is rated at 80% efficiency and actually rated at 430w, not 400w.
The highest priced components don't mean they are the best. Do your homework, check the specs of what your looking for.
Location: COMFORTABLY NUMB, in U.S.A. *** KOFF ***
Age: 51
Gender: Male
You should be able to see what your PSU is by opening the case, and reading the spec tag that is on it. Then do a google search for your EXACT PSU. The tag will have the manufacturer, series, and wattage it is. Then go from there with google.
If you have a propriety (retail) system, it may or may not tell you what it is.
I would go with tomcatdriver's advice, but I have a huge problem. My Dell case is proprietary. As you can see in the pics, I must purchase a power supply with the correct orientation, so I can plug my wire in correctly!
Thus far, I think this is the best power supply I can purchase. I must purchase a PSU that can supply at least 500W...under $70. Keep in mind that it must fit my case!
This will show you the different configurations of your different PSU configurations. Make sure they match the one(s) you have.
And this link below, is why you want to stay away from propriety (retail) systems. And yes, Dell is the worst of the worst. That is not only my opinion, but fact when you want to upgrade a prop/retail system.
Location: COMFORTABLY NUMB, in U.S.A. *** KOFF ***
Age: 51
Gender: Male
Well........I am glad I saved your PC, but also sorry that there really isn't anything I can do to help you, except for spending the outrageous money to get the right PSU that you need or want.
RD
Last edited by rd on Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:53 am; edited 1 time in total
Yeah I know. I am currently in a kinda bad mood now. Here's the scenario.
I was planning on upgrading my video card to the BFGtech 6800GS OC after researching low-budget video cards for my friend. I realized my power supply did not supply enough power. So, I went on Newegg and bought the video card and the power supply. Then I came here to ask the question about dual +12v lines. I then found out that upgrading my power supply to a non-Dell product can fry my motherboard. After revealing the ridiculous price for a Dell-certified PSU, I gave up. I did not want to spend so much money.
So now, I am about to return both products and stick with my crappy Dell pc. I have to pay 15% restocking fee for each product. I lost money. I will stay away from Dell from now on.
But then again...I am glad I brought up my concern about Dell's proprietary parts.
Thanks everyone (especially RD) for extremely helpful advice!
EDIT BY RD: ..THANKS, I'm just trying to do my thing. At least you asked about PSU's, and told us what you actually had. Otherwise, I am sure it would have been a very ugly result if you installed them. . MEMBERS, this is why it is important to let others know what your system specs are.
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